What are the basic fabric knowledge every buyer should know?

When sourcing fabrics, understanding the basics can make all the difference. Many buyers struggle with fabric terminology, leading to miscommunication and poor purchasing decisions. The good news? Mastering key fabric concepts isn't as complicated as it seems.

Textile fabric is any flexible material made from fibers through weaving, knitting, or other methods. It is classified based on fiber type, structure, and processing methods. GSM¹, yarn count², and fabric density³ all impact the quality and feel of the fabric.

If you’ve ever felt lost when discussing fabric specifications with suppliers, this guide is for you. Let's break down the most important fabric concepts every buyer should know.

What is textile fabric? What are the classifications of textile fabrics?

Textile fabric is the fundamental material used in clothing and various textile products. It is created by interlacing fibers in specific patterns through weaving, knitting, or bonding techniques.

Textile fabrics are primarily classified by fiber type (natural or synthetic), fabric structure (woven, knitted, or non-woven), and processing methods (dyed, printed, coated). Each type has unique characteristics affecting durability, comfort, and application.

Textile Pattern Variety

Key Classifications of Textile Fabrics

Understanding these classifications helps buyers choose the right fabric based on their intended use, cost, and required performance.

What does GSM (grams per square meter) mean? How does it affect fabric quality?

GSM (grams per square meter) is a measurement of fabric weight, indicating how heavy or dense a material is. It directly influences the fabric’s thickness, durability, and drape.

A higher GSM means a thicker, denser fabric, while a lower GSM results in a lighter, more breathable material. For example, T-shirts typically range from 150-200 GSM, while denim exceeds 300 GSM.

Why is GSM Important?

• Higher GSM: More durable, better for winter wear and heavy-duty applications.
• Lower GSM: Lighter, more breathable, suitable for summer clothing and flowy designs.
• Mid-range GSM: A balance between comfort and durability, often used for casual wear.

What is yarn count (e.g., 40S, 60S)? What do these numbers represent?

Yarn count refers to the thickness and fineness of the yarn used in fabric production. It is expressed as a number followed by an “S” (e.g., 40S, 60S).

A higher yarn count means finer, smoother, and softer fabric, while a lower count results in a thicker and coarser texture. For example, 60S cotton is finer than 40S, making it softer and more breathable.

Yarn Count Breakdown

• 20S - 40S: Used for standard cotton T-shirts, offering a balance of softness and durability.
• 50S - 80S: Common in luxury fabrics, providing a silkier feel for high-end shirts and dresses.
• 100S and above: Extremely fine yarn, mainly found in premium textiles like Egyptian cotton shirts.

What is fabric density? How does it affect the fabric’s properties?

Fabric density refers to the number of yarns per unit area, usually measured in threads per inch (TPI) or picks per inch (PPI) in woven fabrics.

Higher density fabrics tend to be more durable, smoother, and less transparent, while lower density fabrics feel softer but may lack structure and strength.

How Density Impacts Fabric?

• High density: Stronger, smoother, less prone to shrinking (e.g., luxury bed sheets, formal shirts).
• Low density: Softer, lighter, but may be more prone to wear and tear (e.g., summer dresses, scarves).

What is the difference between warp knitting and weft knitting?

Knitting is classified into two main types: warp knitting and weft knitting. The difference lies in the direction in which yarns are looped.

Warp knitting involves looping yarns in a vertical direction, creating a more stable fabric, while weft knitting loops yarns horizontally, resulting in a stretchier fabric.

Comparison Table: Warp vs. Weft Knitting

Weft-knitted fabrics are common in T-shirts and sweaters due to their stretch, while warp-knitted fabrics are preferred for swimwear and lingerie for their durability.

What factors influence a fabric's elasticity?

Fabric elasticity is crucial for comfort and fit. It determines how well a fabric stretches and recovers its original shape.

Elasticity is influenced by fiber type, knitting/weaving structure, and added elastane (spandex). Synthetic fibers like polyester have more stretch than natural fibers like cotton. Knitted fabrics are more elastic than woven fabrics.

Key Factors Affecting Fabric Stretch

• Fiber Content: Spandex and lycra improve stretch, while cotton and linen have minimal elasticity.
• Fabric Construction: Knitted fabrics stretch more than woven fabrics due to their looped structure.
• Finishing Techniques: Special treatments can enhance stretch and recovery properties.

Conclusion

Understanding basic fabric knowledge helps buyers make informed decisions when sourcing materials. GSM, yarn count, and density directly impact quality, while knitting and weaving techniques determine stretch and durability. Mastering these concepts ensures better communication with suppliers and better product selection.