How do designers choose fabric?

Designers don’t just sketch pretty silhouettes—they make high-stakes material decisions. The wrong fabric can ruin an otherwise perfect design. Here's how professionals get it right.

Designers choose fabric by aligning the design intent with technical properties¹, cost, performance, and brand values. This process balances creativity with practicality, ensuring the fabric supports both aesthetics and production.

Years ago, I designed a draped blouse using a beautiful rayon—but in production, it kept losing shape after a few washes. Since then, I always test for recovery and long-term wear before locking fabric in.

Why Fabric Selection Is a Critical Design Decision?

Fabric doesn’t just “wrap” the design—it becomes the design.

Fabric determines how a garment drapes, moves, feels, and performs—affecting not just the silhouette but the user experience and final brand perception.

Draping Studio Display

The relationship between fabric and silhouette

A fitted dress made from stiff cotton won't hug the body right. A pleated skirt made with heavy fleece? Unwearable. Fabric controls shape.

How fabric affects garment performance, style, and market positioning

Customers associate certain fabrics with quality levels. Pima cotton elevates basics. Synthetics like polyester may signal “budget” unless innovatively used.

Drape + feel + performance = brand identity

If your market is premium, you can’t skimp on fabric. It speaks louder than the logo.

Step 1 – Start with the Design Intent?

Every design starts with a purpose. Fabric must align with it.

Ask two questions: What is the garment for? And what emotional or functional outcome should it deliver? These guide the fabric direction from the start.

What is the purpose of the garment? (Occasion, functionality)

Is this for office wear or a music festival? Travel-friendly or red-carpet? A yoga bodysuit has very different fabric needs from a bridesmaid dress.

• Activewear: Needs 4-way stretch, sweat-wicking, anti-pilling
• Formalwear: Needs drape, elegance, high colorfastness
• Casualwear: Needs breathability, comfort, and easy care

What feeling or effect should it evoke (drape, shine, structure)?

A fabric’s emotional role is huge.

• Want elegance? Go for matte silk or tencel.
• Want structure? Use twill, ponte, or scuba.
• Want coziness? Try brushed jersey or modal fleece.

Your fabric is your emotional palette.

Step 2 – Understand Key Fabric Properties?

Now that you know what you're designing, study the materials.

Fabric is more than color and weight. You must understand how it drapes, stretches, feels, breathes, and ages. These impact wearability and perception.

Drape, hand-feel, and structure

Drape affects motion. Hand-feel influences customer satisfaction. Structure defines form.

Breathability, stretch, and recovery

• Breathability: Natural fibers (cotton, linen) > synthetics
• Stretch: Elastane blends offer 2-way or 4-way stretch
• Recovery: How well it returns to shape after movement

Test this with basic stretch/recovery swatches on samples.

Weight, thickness, and layering potential

Weight impacts coverage and silhouette. A 300gsm jersey may feel too hot for layering, while 180gsm cotton is breezy and summer-perfect.

For outerwear, pair heavy shell fabrics with lightweight linings. For dresses, consider layering opacity and body shape.

Step 3 – Consider Technical and Production Requirements?

A pretty fabric that’s a nightmare to sew? Skip it.

Good fabric must balance design with manufacturability—ensuring it can be cut, sewn, and finished efficiently across bulk orders.

Can it be cut/sewn easily at scale?

Some fabrics fray excessively, shift during cutting, or jam machines.

• Slippery fabrics (silk, satin): Hard to control
• Knits: May curl at edges
• Loose weaves: Tend to distort

Always consult your pattern maker and production line during selection.

Is it prone to shrinkage, bleeding, or pilling?

Do a wash test early on. Some beautiful fabrics behave terribly after a few washes.

How well does it hold shape, print, or dye?

For printed collections, test how pigment binds to the fabric. Digital print works better on flat, stable weaves. Reactive dyes work well on cellulosic fabrics.

If doing bold prints, make sure the fabric has low distortion and high print clarity.

Step 4 – Align with Budget, MOQ, and Availability?

Dream fabric is useless if it’s out of budget or stock.

You must balance creative vision with real-world sourcing: cost per meter, lead time, and supplier terms (like MOQ and shipping windows).

Domestic vs. overseas sourcing

• Domestic sourcing gives speed, small MOQ, but limited variety
• Overseas sourcing (e.g., China, India) offers lower cost, more options, but longer lead times and higher MOQ

If you’re launching fast, go local. If scaling, go global.

Custom development vs. off-the-shelf options

Custom fabrics let you stand out, but they need:

• Higher MOQ (300–1000m+)
• Longer lead time (30–60 days)
• Clear tech packs and communication

For small runs or prototyping, off-the-shelf works better.

Working with suppliers to test fabric options in samples

Before placing bulk orders:

• Request 2–3 meter swatches
• Make test garments
• Observe stitching, wear, shrinkage

This avoids issues mid-production.

Step 5 – Factor in Sustainability and Branding Goals?

Fabric is also a values statement.

Modern consumers care about where and how materials are made. Choose fabrics that support your ESG goals without compromising on performance.

Is the fabric eco-certified (GOTS, OEKO-TEX, etc.)?

These certifications prove that fabric meets environmental or toxicity standards.

Always request certificates when claiming sustainability².

How does it reflect the brand’s ESG positioning?

Your brand’s material choices are a story.

• Sustainable activewear? Use bamboo, recycled poly, or tencel.
• Ethical fashion? Highlight local, organic, and certified suppliers.
• Luxury? Look for low-impact silks or bio-based materials.

Fabric becomes a tool for value-driven storytelling.

Tips for Collaborating with OEM/ODM Suppliers on Fabric Choices?

You don’t have to do this alone. Your supplier can help.

OEM and ODM partners often have deep sourcing networks and technical know-how. Use that to your advantage by being clear and collaborative.

How to communicate your design vision clearly

Avoid vague words like “soft” or “flowy.” Instead:

• Share reference garments
• Use swatch samples
• Describe fabric by property: gsm, elasticity, drape level

The clearer your brief, the better the outcome.

Requesting swatches and performance testing reports

Always request:

• Fabric swatches (2–3 meter cuts)
• Lab test reports: shrinkage %, colorfastness, pilling tests

This data helps you make informed decisions and avoid post-production regret.

Using the supplier’s sourcing network

A good supplier can:

• Offer in-stock alternatives
• Suggest trending fabrics
• Guide MOQ/budget trade-offs

Sometimes, they can develop exclusive blends with mills they already trust.

Fabric Selection Checklist for Designers

Here’s a simplified table you can save or print:

Conclusion

Fabric selection is where creativity meets strategy. Choose with intention, test rigorously, and communicate clearly with suppliers—and your designs will feel as good as they look.